Day 2

Puembo to San Francisco de Borja

Your first morning in Ecuador will be an easy one. After your late arrival, we suggest you sleep and enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the Zayzant Ecolodge. 

After breakfast, we will begin the first leg of our trip from Puembo to San Francisco de Borja. Along the route, we might spot Andean Spectacled Bears and White-tailed Deer near the Sanctuary of the Virgin at the Papallacta Pass. On a good day, we stop to take pictures of the stunning Antisana Volcano. 

Our first stop will be at Guango Lodge, a birdwatcher's paradise with a shaded, native garden that attracts many species of hummingbirds. We encourage hiking the short trail to the river, looking for orchids and birds along the way before enjoying a delicious lunch served in the cozy dining room. 

The word Guango is Kichwa for the place where tumbling rivers meet on a cloud-forest-covered, high mountain slope. Tucked next to a busy highway corridor that connects the capital city with the Northern Amazon basin, Guango provides an excellent opportunity to compare the sounds of passing trucks with the rush of cascading water.

After lunch, we will continue on our way to San Francisco de Borja, where we will be lodging overnight at Cabañas Trés Rios. We recommend an early bedtime to be fresh and ready for the next day.

READ MORE ABOUT GUANGO LODGE

READ MORE ABOUT CABAÑAS TRÉS RIOS

Day 3

San Francisco de Borja

Cabañas Trés Rios lies in the Eastern Foothills of the Andes in the Quijos Canton. Bordered by three nationally protected reserves, Quijos is home to some of the cleanest water in the country and provides access to fast-running rivers for kayaking and rafting.

Our morning will begin at 4:30 am with a horseback ride into the foothills. We will experience dawn as the sun breaks over the distant mountains including, on a clear day, the active Sangay Volcano.

Our day can include a variety of different activities of your choosing including horseback riding, kayaking or white-water rafting, hiking in the lush foothills, birdwatching, cow-milking, and cheese making. We will make that decision as a group before the trip begins.

READ MORE ABOUT POSSIBLE ACTIVITIES WITH CABAÑAS TRÉS RIOS.

Day 4

San Francisco de Borja to Cofán Village

Thus far, we have slowly begun to disconnect from an urban landscape to a more rural one. Today, we delve even deeper.

With an early morning start from San Francisco de Borja, we begin our long day of travel to the Cofán Nation on the Zabalo River.

We will drive for 5.5 hours to Lago Agrio, where we will have lunch in a local restaurant before heading out on an unimproved road to the community of Centro Union, another 2 hours. In Centro Union, we will board a motor boat that will take us down the Rio Aguarico to its confluence with the Rio Zabalo, a 3-hour journey.

Upon our arrival, we will be greeted by the Zabalo River Cofán where we will stay the night in small cabins located within the village. The locale is in the process of being declared one of the first Quiet Stay destinations by Quiet Parks International. 

While we have a plan for the following days with the Cofán, it is important to set aside any preconceived notions of a schedule. We will be invited to participate in Ccaen’tsu Daja, a concept that roughly translates to "Let it be." 

READ MORE ABOUT THE COFÁN

Day 5 

Cofán Village

Our first full day in Zabalo will include an introduction to the village and an afternoon hike into the forests where a Cofán elder will introduce us to the rich wealth of flora available to the community for medicine, food, and materials. 

Day 6

Cofán Village to Camp

Today, we will travel up the Rio Zabalo. This is a large black water stream, and arguably one of the most beautiful waterways in Ecuador. Its personality changes with the height of the water, as does the wildlife. 

It is always a stellar location for birds both big and small. By late March, the stream banks should host troops of monkeys including wooly, howler, capuchin, squirrel, and tamarin.  

However, if the river is low, we will observe different creatures like riverside birds, giant otters, caimans, an occasional anaconda, and sometimes, white-lipped peccary. 

Once we arrive at our private campsite, we will have the opportunity to venture out in the small paddle canoes called quillas. These silent excursions provide the best opportunity to experience what it means to co-exist with nature. 

By staying overnight, we can experience the golden hour, dusk, dawn, and early morning daylight alongside their accompanying sounds. We will listen as the day changes.

Day 7

Camp

A second night of camping will allow us to get to know more of the Rio Zabalo and the headwaters of the Amazon basin. We will spend time fishing and birdwatching, paddling upriver and floating back down. 

(optional return to village in the afternoon)

Day 8

Camp to Cofán Village

In the morning, after enjoying daybreak and breakfast, we will motor back to the village and spend the day visiting families in their homes and partake in the activities of the day like artisan crafts, cooking, and child-raising. 

In the late afternoon, the village will put on their "mobile market" where we will have the opportunity to purchase one-of-a-kind Cofan handicrafts and buy souvenirs. 

In the evening, we will enjoy a traditional meal prepared with local products prepared by the Cofán, once again sharing a meal and dinner time conversations with our new friends.

Day 9

Cofán Village to Cosanga

Today, we begin our journey back in the early morning hours. First, upriver to Centro Union (3 hours), and then to Lago Agrio (2.5 hours).

If the road is open, we will return via San Rafael in the afternoon, stopping to see the San Rafael Waterfall and to talk with locals about the impact of the Coca-Sinclair Hydroelectric Project. This route also provides the opportunity to visit a small but excellent private orchid reserve if time allows.

If the San Rafael route is closed, we will return the same way we arrived, via Loreto. 

With either route, we will stay overnight at Cabañas San Isidro, a favorite eco-lodge known for its excellent hummingbird garden, collection of orchids, and delicious fusion cuisine.

READ MORE ABOUT CABAÑAS SAN ISIDRO 

Day 10

Cabañas San Isidro

If we have not been able to return via San Rafael, we can decide to use this day to drive out towards the waterfall, visit the orchid reserve mentioned in the previous itinerary, and tour another ecotourism project yet to be determined.

Otherwise, will enjoy a day at Cabañas San Isidro, choosing from among several of their wonderful options, including an early morning bird walk, kayaking along the river, soaking in their warm water pool, lounging in the hummingbird garden, hiking the forest trails, or walking the unimproved road to visit the Yanayacu Biological Station.

Cabañas San Isidro also offers cooking classes and specializes in fusion cuisine highlighting Ecuadorian products in new and delicious ways.

Day 11

Cosanga to Pampallacta

In the mid-morning, we will depart Cabañas San Isidro and head to the famous spa town of Papallacta, Ecuador.

This will be a day of relaxation and contemplation in the hot springs provided at the beautiful grounds of Hostería PampaLlacta. Located near the Cayambe Coca National Park, the surrounding mountains are lush with high altitude forests of paper trees and other native vegetation. 

Lunch will be included. Additional spa services like Shiatsu Massage and dinner in the lodge restaurant will be available at additional cost.

READ MORE ABOUT HOSTERIA PAMPALLACTA

Day 12

Hostería Pampa Llacta to Quito via Cochasquí

After breakfast, we will drive to the Cochasquí archeology site where they have celebrated Andean New Year for centuries. This day has ties to the traditional Raymi festivals that are celebrated on the equinoxes and solstices each year. 

Called Mushuk Nina, which means New Fire in Quichua, the day will be full of music, dancing, and ritual blessings with fire and smoke. We will have the opportunity to meet and interact with the performers and other guests, usually local Ecuadorians from the surrounding communities.

In the late afternoon, we will head to Quito and stay the night at the Cultura Manor Hotel. You will have the opportunity to walk to a selection of restaurants and bars located in the popular Mariscal District. 

Since the pandemic, traditional events like Mushuk Nina are not as consistently open to visitors. If by chance it is not possible to visit Cochasquí on this day, we will find an alternative Spring Solstice celebration near Quito.

Day 13

Historic Quito to the Airport

Wake up and enjoy a slow start to your morning with a delicious breakfast at the hotel. 

Jacquie will pick you up mid-to-late morning for a half day tour of Historic Quito. She will leave you in the historic district to wander at your hearts' content before returning to the hotel for your transport to the Quito International Airport.

Most flights back to the United States depart in the late evening hours so an arrival time of 8 pm is generally sufficient for your overnight flight. We have arranged for a late checkout from the hotel. If you would like an additional night's stay, please let us know.